You can check my whole website dedicated to drum and guitar rings.
http://musicianrings.com
But here is how I made my last order:

I use a Wolf Wax attachment to turn a #35 foredom hand piece into a mini router. I first ream out the tube to the desired finger size and then shape the wax to a plain basic band.

By changing the large cylinder bur to a wheel bur, I milled the step of the “rim” of the hoop. I Flipped the wax over and repeat the cut.

I marked out 8 equal lines for the placement of the lugs and tension rods.

For this design, I carved the lugs in the wax. By doing the rims, shell and lugs in one piece, it dramatically cut down the labor of assembling individual parts in metal. (Which I have done on some drum multi colored gold versions.)

Here is the finished wax after texturing the shell with a 1.0 mm ball bur for the finish the customer custom ordered.

The wax model is sprewed on to a rubber base and a metal cylinder is placed over that.

A special plaster is poured into the flask. When the plaster hardens the rubber base is removed, exposing the ends of the wax sprew. The flask is placed in a kiln. As the temperature rises, the wax melts out, leaving a cavity of exactly what was carved.
The molten metal is “shot” into the flask with the aid of a centrifuge.

Here is a flask just after casting.

When you dunk the mold in water, the plaster breaks down.

Here is the rough casting with the sprew and “button”. You always need to carefully calculate how much metal you use to cast with. Too much, and molten metal would go flying out after overfilling the mold. Too little, and the ring is incomplete or plagued with porosity. (Small voids)

The ring is cut off of the button and goes through a process of sanding and polishing. The button can be used in the next casting along with the addition of more new metal.

Working.

I am working on the tension rods. Holes are drilled and wire is soldered in place.

The finished ring.

http://musicianrings.com