I wish I had a “before” picture of this ring. This ring has some sentimental value but was well worn. It had a number of issues and was worked on many times before. It was in need of a new shank and the marquise needed a little updating. I carved a wax for the new shank, cast it and used it in the repair of this ring. That far was better then making a large ingot and rolling it out in the rolling mill then cutting away a bunch of metal to make the nice taper.
There are not a lot of options for marquise halo style heads out there. I suppose it is because of the too many variations of length to width proportions that marquise have. I spent about an hour and a half carving and tweaking the wax using my bench microscope under 4 power. It was time well spent— the stone setting went very smoothly. Bead set side diamonds of a halo can have an antique look to it so I gave it a simple profile to help it go with the more modern invisible set princess cut diamonds of the mounting.
I did not like the way the basket head that I ordered looked in the halo. It raised the marquise up too high. So I fabricated my own head so the diamond sat just above the halo. The original peg head was a little out of proportion for the wide ring. The nice stone got lost. The new halo gives the center stone some real presence.
A lot of different types of repair technics were used to give this ring a new life. And the fact that the work done to it is hard to pick out makes it even more satisfying. The ring is now well proportioned and updated. The shank has the heft it originally had. I think it all came together well.
This is a popular design that we have been doing in remounting a marquise.
The clean lines and modern design freshens up a diamond shape that was very popular in the 80’s/90’s. The fashion pendulum always swings and the marquise may see a revival.
I drew up a variation of the design by angling out the sides and bead setting her diamonds from her original mounting. We did not end up using the baguettes in this piece.
Channel setting the marquise on it’s short side is unconventional. I would not suggest setting it this way in a ring. A pendant or earrings don’t take the abuse that a ring undergoes. In a ring, the exposed points of the marquise would catch on things and would constantly teeter-totter itself loose.
This asymmetrical mounting has a knife edge on one side and a split shoulder on the other. One factor in that decision was that there was going to be one row of bead set diamonds. So, by not having everything symmetrical, it would make more sense when only one area was receiving a row of diamonds. It also added a little more style and uniqueness.
Here is the split side of the ring shown before setting the side stones and in the pre polish stage:
There is something so cool about setting a marquise cut diamond across the finger. Really gives, what some people think, a “dated” cut stone, a real modern, updated feel. We carved a wax model for our customer to see and made a few tweaks before casting it 14k super white gold. It is a harder alloy to work with. The metals used to “bleach” out the gold to a super white color, raises the melting temperature and makes the gold notably harder for stone setting. However, the result is a white gold that dose not require rhodium plating for a nice white finish. We bead set five .02ct diamonds that we pulled from her father’s ring. That always gives new jewelry a special warmth, instantly. Memories are already built in.