We stepped up the quality of the classy engagement ring with VS clarity stones and 14k super white gold that does not require rhodium plating.
I carved the wax model and used round burs that were slightly smaller then the stones being used. The reason why is because I knew that I was going to redo the micro prongs once it is was in metal.
I had to make the halo 3 times to get the right combination of size of diamonds to number of diamonds to go perfectly around.
I cast the pieces separately so I could nicely polish the gallery before assembly. I set the diamonds in the mounting. I stuck the blank halo in shellac to hold the piece while I set the stones. I sanded and polished it up and soldered it to the mounting.
I cut the bottom off a thick basket head and polished up before soldering it in place. I set the major stone and gave it a final polish.
The issue with this ring was that the halo was sharp and catching. The solution that we came up with was to add a wire frame to the halo. The stones would be more protected (a few missing) and the edge would be smooth.
I laser welded 20 gauge white gold wire from the bottom which kept clean lines from the top view. I made the bottom seamless where the ring looks like it was made this way to begin with.
It was a big stone in the ring before I was asked to work on this engagement ring. Now I was asked to keep the halo and figure out a way to add a new, mammoth, stone. Since the new stone was as wide as the halo, I was not going to buy a pre made head.
The first thing I did was to carefully remove the original head. It was laser welded on so I could not just heat it up and “un” solder it. I removed the small diamonds, incrusting the head, and cut it off in pieces. Then I used round burs to carefully grind the rest away.
With the halo saved, I removed 4 diamonds in 4 even, strategic spots and drilled out a space with a 1.3mm round bur. I laser tacked 1.3mm white gold wire in place and tweaked it until I was happy with their placement and angles. Then I proceeded to solder them in place.
Said a prayer and set the new stone. I must say, the ring looks like it was originally made this way. It almost looks more natural now, then the beginning design.
I like this remount idea.
This was originally an engagement ring with a Tiffany peg head mounting for the major diamond. It was retired to a right hand ring and she wanted to change it up and add diamonds to the ring. The three stones that she had and wanted to use where of slightly different sizes. Since the one was set in an halo pendant already, she thought it would be cool to use that for the center. The other two diamonds would flank it in standard low base heads. The fact that they are different sizes became less noticeable with the pendant separating them. I love the way it turned out using all the bling that she already had. A totally different ring from the original design. (Sorry, no “before” picture. Just the “after”)
I wish I had a “before” picture of this ring. This ring has some sentimental value but was well worn. It had a number of issues and was worked on many times before. It was in need of a new shank and the marquise needed a little updating. I carved a wax for the new shank, cast it and used it in the repair of this ring. That far was better then making a large ingot and rolling it out in the rolling mill then cutting away a bunch of metal to make the nice taper.
There are not a lot of options for marquise halo style heads out there. I suppose it is because of the too many variations of length to width proportions that marquise have. I spent about an hour and a half carving and tweaking the wax using my bench microscope under 4 power. It was time well spent— the stone setting went very smoothly. Bead set side diamonds of a halo can have an antique look to it so I gave it a simple profile to help it go with the more modern invisible set princess cut diamonds of the mounting.
I did not like the way the basket head that I ordered looked in the halo. It raised the marquise up too high. So I fabricated my own head so the diamond sat just above the halo. The original peg head was a little out of proportion for the wide ring. The nice stone got lost. The new halo gives the center stone some real presence.
A lot of different types of repair technics were used to give this ring a new life. And the fact that the work done to it is hard to pick out makes it even more satisfying. The ring is now well proportioned and updated. The shank has the heft it originally had. I think it all came together well.
It is hard to play around and make jewelry for the showcase when there are so many custom jobs and repairs on your plate. I have been working a little here and a little there on this ring. I made this ring in fifteen minute intervals for a month. I finally finished it today. It has fifteen 1.0mm round full cut diamonds on a halo that rests on the finger. The 1.10 carat diamond is high above it.
Every one at the store agreed, we need to make more jewelry for the showcase. We are so busy making jewelry it is easy to forget that none are for the showcase.
This project was to make a custom halo for a cushion cut diamond and add it to an existing mounting. First, the existing gallery of the ring was removed to make way for the new top. A wax was carved to house the beautiful main diamond and the side melee diamonds. After casting it was fitted up with bead set diamonds and soldered in place on the prepared mounting. The center stone was set and the piece polished.
Kudos to Fred on all the fine work he did on this one.