This is my first trap set pendant. I looked at a number of pieces from different manufacturers. There were various technics of setting, all with there pros and cons. I took what I thought was good from each and got to work. Since the outer ring of stones are holding the center diamond in it’s seat. I picked out stones with the same diameter AND depth. I measured to the hundredths of a millimeter. I needed to hit 1.00ct total weight. The six outer stones weighed 0.76ct so that left about a 1/4ct stone for the center. I laid them out and it seemed that this combination was going to be perfect.
I did most of the work in wax. I did recut the seats once it was in gold. I was surprised how low the center diamond was set in the mounting. I kept on burring deeper and deeper until the underbelly (pavilion) of the outer ring of diamonds rested on the crown facets of the center. (Trapping it in place). Luckily, I built up the prongs extra tall in the wax. It gave me the leverage to push the shared prongs over the diamonds with pliers rather then having to use a hammer hand piece which would have vibrated the stones like crazy when securing the stones. Then I simply trimmed and dressed the prongs to a triangle shape.
We made a rose gold wedding band to match the white gold engagement ring. I had done a post on the band. I did not post pictures of the set together.
This series all began with my wedding band. And I have done the same three band motif in a new and different way each time. My ring (above) has a half carat princess cut diamond and is in 18k yellow and white golds.
Square top wedding band version with three princess cut diamonds.
Two tone soft round band with round brilliant cut diamonds.
Simplified to two bands. All 14k white with princess cut diamonds.
14k white gold, square top to go with the big square princess cut.
Non-wedding ring version using customer’s agate stone.
14k white gold always looks very striking with blue diamonds.
One of my favorite color stone, non-wedding rings was born from doing drawings for these rings.
This delicate wedding band was made with 14k rose gold with a 14k white gold accent. I love the diamonds set in the side.
It was a big stone in the ring before I was asked to work on this engagement ring. Now I was asked to keep the halo and figure out a way to add a new, mammoth, stone. Since the new stone was as wide as the halo, I was not going to buy a pre made head.
The first thing I did was to carefully remove the original head. It was laser welded on so I could not just heat it up and “un” solder it. I removed the small diamonds, incrusting the head, and cut it off in pieces. Then I used round burs to carefully grind the rest away.
With the halo saved, I removed 4 diamonds in 4 even, strategic spots and drilled out a space with a 1.3mm round bur. I laser tacked 1.3mm white gold wire in place and tweaked it until I was happy with their placement and angles. Then I proceeded to solder them in place.
Said a prayer and set the new stone. I must say, the ring looks like it was originally made this way. It almost looks more natural now, then the beginning design.
A cool asymmetrical heart design engagement ring.
We CAD CAM the custom designed ring. We cast the wax and got to work. It took awhile to set the 78 diamonds in this mounting. Again, the bench microscope saved my eyes and my mind. The recessed channel proposed a problem in sanding and polishing after hammering to tighten the stones. The mill grain beads, unfortunately, can be easily sanded or polished away. So, I high polished the chasing tool to help minimize the finishing work and tapped very carefully with light, multiple hits. More then usual. I used high shine rubber abrasives to remove the tool marks. Even though there are not many flat surfaces that needed lapping, a lot of time was spent polishing the tight spaces with small brushes with my rotary tool at the bench.
The end result is an awesome look.
Carved a wax for 1.7mm (.02ct) diamonds.
Even though the beads were cut in the wax, I went over and recut everything with the ball burrs to clean up the lines before I set the diamonds.
I have the pleasure to be part of so many milestones, achievements, surprises, engagements, major events–most happy, some sad. This happy moment, a long time coming.
17 years ago, when we met Lisa, we hoped we would have the opportunity to make Lisa’s engagement ring.
Her mother will be remembered every time she puts it on, which makes everything about this piece of jewelry even more special.
Congratulations! We are all very happy for you.
I like this remount idea.
This was originally an engagement ring with a Tiffany peg head mounting for the major diamond. It was retired to a right hand ring and she wanted to change it up and add diamonds to the ring. The three stones that she had and wanted to use where of slightly different sizes. Since the one was set in an halo pendant already, she thought it would be cool to use that for the center. The other two diamonds would flank it in standard low base heads. The fact that they are different sizes became less noticeable with the pendant separating them. I love the way it turned out using all the bling that she already had. A totally different ring from the original design. (Sorry, no “before” picture. Just the “after”)