I love being asked to find solutions for a wedding set. For hers, she wanted a bypass design. So the design was quite obvious. I matched the heart motif and kept a similar width and profile.
I cast it in two pieces so I could better finish the inside of the bypass.
It is nice to see yellow gold making a come back.
I used tungsten burnished to work harden the ring. It hardens the surface and makes to more scratch resistant.
You can check my whole website dedicated to drum and guitar rings.
But here is how I made my last order:
For this design, I carved the lugs in the wax. By doing the rims, shell and lugs in one piece, it dramatically cut down the labor of assembling individual parts in metal. (Which I have done on some drum multi colored gold versions.)
A special plaster is poured into the flask. When the plaster hardens the rubber base is removed, exposing the ends of the wax sprew. The flask is placed in a kiln. As the temperature rises, the wax melts out, leaving a cavity of exactly what was carved.
The molten metal is “shot” into the flask with the aid of a centrifuge.
Here is the rough casting with the sprew and “button”. You always need to carefully calculate how much metal you use to cast with. Too much, and molten metal would go flying out after overfilling the mold. Too little, and the ring is incomplete or plagued with porosity. (Small voids)
This series all began with my wedding band. And I have done the same three band motif in a new and different way each time. My ring (above) has a half carat princess cut diamond and is in 18k yellow and white golds.
Square top wedding band version with three princess cut diamonds.
It was a big stone in the ring before I was asked to work on this engagement ring. Now I was asked to keep the halo and figure out a way to add a new, mammoth, stone. Since the new stone was as wide as the halo, I was not going to buy a pre made head.
The first thing I did was to carefully remove the original head. It was laser welded on so I could not just heat it up and “un” solder it. I removed the small diamonds, incrusting the head, and cut it off in pieces. Then I used round burs to carefully grind the rest away.
With the halo saved, I removed 4 diamonds in 4 even, strategic spots and drilled out a space with a 1.3mm round bur. I laser tacked 1.3mm white gold wire in place and tweaked it until I was happy with their placement and angles. Then I proceeded to solder them in place.
This week I was kept busy with a few labor intensive custom engagement rings. This beauty took all of the bride’s wishes and ideas taken from a few different rings and combined into this gorgeous design.
Rough castings in 14k white and rose golds.
The diamonds tapered from 0.9mm to 1.3mm. I set the diamonds in the white gold before assembling the two pieces. Extreme care was taken in polishing the ring, not to polish out the fine details of the delicate design. Hours were spent burnishing and polishing using fine burrs, laps and brushes, getting into the tight places. The bench microscope was so helpful in afiddling with the tiny full cut stones. All seating, graving and beading was done under 4 or 6 power.
Jim Edwards from the Rockets showing off his Detroit pride with his Atlas Jewelers “D” ring. Chad Smith showing off his marriage pride.
I hand fabricated the “lugs” from a rolled ingot and made the “tension rods” from wire. I also made a 14K rose gold name plate.
More drum and guitar jewelry, rings and wedding bands can be seen at http://MusicainRings.com