Atlas Jewelers Bench Talk

Stories behind the jewelry by the goldsmith

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Oval old school engagement ring

Posted by atlasjewelers on December 7, 2014
Posted in: custom design, Wedding engagement rings. Tagged: band, bead seat, bright cut, diamond, engagement, gold, oval, pave, ring. Leave a comment

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This ring was a fun challenge. Since most of the work of stone setting and graving is done in metal, it would seem that the wax carving would have been easy. However, keeping good symmetry was very challenging. I did most of the carving under 6x magnification.

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I used tacky wax to stick the diamonds on the wax model to plan out the bead setting and to show the customer.

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Because of all the cut outs, the wax required extra sprues to ensure a complete casting.

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After I cut the seat for the center oval, I used dividers to score evenly spaced marks on the bezel. Then I used a jeweler’s saw to cut through the bezel. The hammer hand piece seemed to effortlessly move each little prong over the girdle to tighten the diamond. Whereas with a solid bezel, the tends to be a lot of hammering.

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Thank you Fred from Uncommon Design for the nice bright cutting on the bead set diamonds.

December’s birth stone is blue zircon

Posted by atlasjewelers on December 2, 2014
Posted in: custom design, Uncategorized. Tagged: birth stone, blue zircon, December, gem, gold, stone. Leave a comment

Blue zircon is the only colored gem stone that is more brilliant then diamond, due to the double refractive nature of the stone. It has a great blue color. Zircon is a natural gem stone and comes in a verity of different colors. It has the hardness of 7.5.
Here are a few pieces that I have made over the years:
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Micro bead set diamond ring.

Posted by atlasjewelers on November 25, 2014
Posted in: custom design. Tagged: 14k, band, bead set, bezel, diamond, gold, micro, pave, ring. Leave a comment

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I get to enjoy challenging myself making jewelry for the show case sometimes. This one was pretty fun. I started with carving two identical bands, cast them up in 14 karat yellow gold and micro bead set 1.3mm diamonds. The assembly of the different length bars came next. Each one was cut to length and soldered in place. Lastly, the bezel set 3/4 carat round brilliant cut diamond was set then laser welded in place.

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Brand new-old engagement ring.

Posted by atlasjewelers on November 24, 2014
Posted in: custom design, remount, Wedding engagement rings. Tagged: band, custom, diamond, gold, remount, wedding. Leave a comment

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I carved the wax model of this engagement ring to match the existing wedding band that was her mother’s. Using her stones, this new ring carries all the sentimental value and it looks like these two rings were made at the same time.
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The growth of a wedding set

Posted by atlasjewelers on November 20, 2014
Posted in: jewelry repair, remount, Wedding engagement rings. Tagged: anniversary, band, engagment, gold, repair, ring, solder, wedding. Leave a comment

IMG_2806.JPGI was just going to refinish and rhodium plate the three rings.

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I suggested that I solder them all together.

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I noticed that the thin band would be perfect to act as spacer/shim to fill the gap created by the base of heads holding the princess cut diamonds.

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The marked area was cut out to create a flat surface for the diamond band to fit flush.

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Here is the cut band fit into place, soldered and polished.
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The beauty of this wedding set is the history of the parts but I didn’t learn of all the history and meaning and story behind these rings until after I completed the work.

I think it is awesome to keep and use sentimental jewelry. This has quite a progression. As she put it:

“…We upgraded to the larger center stone (when we could afford a bigger and nicer set than my original one). I kept the band from that set and I wore it with the the solitare for quite a few years.
When our first son passed away, hubby bought me one of the smaller stones in honor/remebrance of our little one we lost, and to remind me that I was as strong, unbreakable and beautiful as what the diamond represented. Once Peyton was born he bought me another stone in honor of him!
On our 10th anniversary we had the three diamonds all set into one ring. It symbolizes the family bond.
On our 15th anniversary he bought me the diamond band. I could never part with the thin band because that was what he placed on my finger when we said ‘I do ‘.”
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Like the age rings of a growing tree, this wedding set shows the triumphs and tribulations of what life brings walking hand in hand with the ones you love.

A new halo for a halo.

Posted by atlasjewelers on November 3, 2014
Posted in: jewelry repair. Tagged: diamond, halo, repair, ring. Leave a comment

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The issue with this ring was that the halo was sharp and catching. The solution that we came up with was to add a wire frame to the halo. The stones would be more protected (a few missing) and the edge would be smooth.

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I laser welded 20 gauge white gold wire from the bottom which kept clean lines from the top view. I made the bottom seamless where the ring looks like it was made this way to begin with.

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Guitar urn

Posted by atlasjewelers on October 22, 2014
Posted in: custom design. Tagged: ashes, custom, guitar, jewelery, sterling, urn. Leave a comment

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Sterling silver acoustic guitar urn for ashes.

This guitar was made from a picture of a guy’s guitar.  The body of the guitar is hollow and a silver plate is soldered on the back to hold in the ashes.

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Very special bullet casing bracelet

Posted by atlasjewelers on October 17, 2014
Posted in: custom design. Tagged: bracelet, brass, bullet, caliber, case, custom, Jewelry, police, shell. 2 Comments

A young lady handed me a spent bullet casing and told me that she would like to make a piece of jewelry with this. She explained that it was a shell from a ceremonial gun salute at her father’s funeral. She had some ideas of what she wanted: a bracelet that was casual enough and sturdy enough to wear anywhere. His name and birth stone on one side and his birth year and the year of his passing on the reverse side.

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We made plans on the design of a bracelet. I was going to solder on sterling silver jump rings, solder on a silver bezel for the citrine and attach a silver chain. But once I cut open the shell I was pleasantly surprised to find the base more solid then I thought it would be. This allowed me more options. I text her some of the proposed ideas that I came up with along the way. Like how I had thought I would have had to add a bezel to set the stone. But the brass was plenty thick enough to flush set the birth stone.

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I used a tiny ball burr (0.036mm) under a 6 power microscope to engrave the letters. (The last name blurred out for privacy.)

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Instead of just soldering on jump rings, I made a sterling silver ring that fit in the channel at the base of the shell. I soldered two rings on it before fitting it over and soldering the large loop In place, making it seamless, for a great appearance. By using a necklace for the chain, I had the length to double up the chain to give it enough thickness to look proportionate, design wise, yet still be feminine.

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The last picture is the date side which still has the primer cap and manufacturing stamps in which I added the dates.

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Not only is this a cool looking bracelet using a bullet shell, but the meaning behind this one is so awesome.

Drum wedding band

Posted by atlasjewelers on October 14, 2014
Posted in: custom design. Tagged: band, drum, drummer, gold, ring, snare, wedding. Leave a comment

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Here is another cool custom snare drum wedding ring. It all started when I saw his Drum Workshop shirt and asked him if he has one of those awesome drum sets. He does. (I’m so jealous).
I showed him my drum ring and the next thing you know, his wife says that he has to have one. Lucky guy. We got to work on his drum ring.

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This 14k yellow and white gold ring is made up of 28 parts. The shell and rims were milled in wax. I did them in different color waxes just to help us in the shop keep straight the color of metal each were to be cast in.

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Shown here is the shell, rims and lugs assembled after casting. The lugs were fabricated from a rod of white gold, cut into little slabs. Each was concave to have as much contact with the shell as possible . It took about an hour just to space out the 8 lugs and to laser tacked them in place. Then I soldered them on at the bench with a torch.

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The 14k white gold 20 gauge wire used for the tension rods were laser welded in place.
A florentine graver was randomly used to give a wood grain effect.IMG_2698

Memory lane. My first rings.

Posted by atlasjewelers on October 13, 2014
Posted in: custom design, Uncategorized, Work shop. Tagged: barbed wire, copper, dangerous, Jewelry, spike. Leave a comment

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I was digging in my workbench at home and found these rings. My first cast ring (copper barbed wire ring) and first fabricated ring. (The silver dangerous, spike ring).

Not sure where the spiked peace sign pendant wrapped in fabricated barbed wire went. Lol.

I am glad that I grew out of the dangerous jewelry phase.

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