As I am forced to using the bench microscope more and more because of today’s jewelry that use micro pave’ diamonds. Yesterday I was setting up some new rings and replacing/repairing some micro bead set diamonds with 0.8mm diameter diamonds. To give prospective of how tiny these are, I took a picture of some on a dime. These are full cut diamonds with over 50 facets. Whereas a number of years ago, melee under 0.02ct were “single cut” stones with 27 facets.
One of my diamond sources is now cutting full cut 1/3 pointers. (0.003 carat)
Looks like I will need to keep my microscope nearby.
This is a remounting of the customer’s diamonds from an invisible set princess cut and baguette ring and two round brilliant cut diamond bands. (I do not have a before picture). Invisible set rings look cool but can not take much abuse or much wear and tare. She was constantly having loose stones. She lost stones enough times to finally redo the ring. We channel and prong set the diamonds for a more secure setting method.
It’s always a good day when you set a big stone and have no problems. I mean, the unthinkable: chipping the stone as you pull down the prongs with the pliers. I only ask what the stone is worth AFTER I am done. Today was very good that I didn’t ask until after. 😉
I was asked to move a large pear shaped diamond from an engagement ring to a new rose gold oval halo mounting that had an oval garnet. I removed the garnet and removed the prongs.
Since there was just a big void where the belly of the stone used to be, I had to make a new bridge to accept the base of the peg head. I laser tacked the bridge in place and soldered it in with “hard” solder. Hard solder has a higher melting temperature then the “easy” solder which I was going to be using in the next soldering step. With small brushes, I polished the bridge. The prongs of her existing mounting were in great shape so I kept her stone in the crown and transferred it over the new ring. I knew I could solder the head in place with “easy” solder without fear of unsoldering the bridge from its place.
This ring came together so effortlessly. In talking to Denise about the wish list for her remount diamond ring, this idea popped up and we went with it. I remember how easy the random wires almost placed themselves. It was an auto-pilot moment and I was in the zone. It is a great feeling to have as an artist when everything just flows right.
This diamond came from a ring and was remounted in this custom frame. I loved how the 3-prong head fit so perfectly in the trillion design. I played around with the height of the head so the girdle of the stone just sat above the frame where it almost seems to float.
These are the days that I love my laser welder. I needed to add a diamond and sapphire to an existing pair of earrings to match an existing pendant. The laser welder made putting this together a breeze. I assembled the heads and wire gallery and set the stones before welding it in the earrings. It made clean up so much better and easier.
The customer wanted us to remake his favorite yellow and white gold ring in all white gold. To save him some money, I suggested that we cut off the top plate of the existing ring and use it in the new ring since the setting was performed well and it was still in good shape. I carved a wax around the diamond encrusted plate. We cast it in super white 14K gold and soldered the plate on top. Turned out great.
This project was to make a custom halo for a cushion cut diamond and add it to an existing mounting. First, the existing gallery of the ring was removed to make way for the new top. A wax was carved to house the beautiful main diamond and the side melee diamonds. After casting it was fitted up with bead set diamonds and soldered in place on the prepared mounting. The center stone was set and the piece polished.
Kudos to Fred on all the fine work he did on this one.
Denice always regretted setting a peridot in her ring when the original trillion blue zircon, got damaged.
I told her, that in the event we could not find a new blue zircon trillion cut stone in budget, we could rework the ring to accommodate a different shape stone.
We found a nice round stone that she was happy with.
I got to work, first, cutting off the old trillion gallery.
It left a huge hole and seat that needed to be filled. I did a controlled melt of white gold to fill the hole. I slowly brought the ring to the melting point and added beads of gold. Then pulled back the flame. I kept adding small beads of white gold until it was filled in. No solder was used.
I grind, sanded and shaped the area smooth.
I lasered on a fabricated “donut” of gold for the new seat/gallery.
I tack lasered on a big prong and then soldered it in place.
I cut a seat and set the stone.
Cleaned up and polished. The ring does not look like it went through a major remodel.