This piece has a wonderful back story. The customer’s father use to blow her a kiss. Now that he has passed what a wonderful remembrance of having a pendant made with her pear shaped diamond from him cradled in a hand as if he is blowing her a kiss.
I wish I had a “before” picture of this ring. This ring has some sentimental value but was well worn. It had a number of issues and was worked on many times before. It was in need of a new shank and the marquise needed a little updating. I carved a wax for the new shank, cast it and used it in the repair of this ring. That far was better then making a large ingot and rolling it out in the rolling mill then cutting away a bunch of metal to make the nice taper.
There are not a lot of options for marquise halo style heads out there. I suppose it is because of the too many variations of length to width proportions that marquise have. I spent about an hour and a half carving and tweaking the wax using my bench microscope under 4 power. It was time well spent— the stone setting went very smoothly. Bead set side diamonds of a halo can have an antique look to it so I gave it a simple profile to help it go with the more modern invisible set princess cut diamonds of the mounting.
I did not like the way the basket head that I ordered looked in the halo. It raised the marquise up too high. So I fabricated my own head so the diamond sat just above the halo. The original peg head was a little out of proportion for the wide ring. The nice stone got lost. The new halo gives the center stone some real presence.
A lot of different types of repair technics were used to give this ring a new life. And the fact that the work done to it is hard to pick out makes it even more satisfying. The ring is now well proportioned and updated. The shank has the heft it originally had. I think it all came together well.
This ring was blogged about a few weeks ago. We made this remount ring for a customer duplicating the three separate rings that were soldered together. The center ring was a beautiful invisible set princess and baguette ring that was having the typical issues with continual stone loss. We kept the basic design of the set, but channel set the stones instead of invisible setting. The prong set round diamond bands were integrated in the new ring. The original ring had very little metal around the invisible set stones as compared to the new ring, so after it was done, the customer felt that it seemed just too bulky, from what she was used to, with all the channels of metal. This should have been addressed in the wax model viewing part of the project. It can be hard for some people to envision the design even with the actual wax, 3D model in their hands. I think that some people have a hard time because they are seeing a nonmetallic (non-reflective) piece of hard colored wax. Our goal is to always do what we can do to please our customer. That is why they come to us. There are many jewelers to chose from. What good is being highly skilled and caring about craftsmanship and value if customers walk away dissatisfied because of a misunderstanding?
The first sinking feeling was that there was no way to make these major changes that did not include remaking the entire ring. I came up with a plan to try a big modification first. I cut the ring into 3 pieces. I filed and sanded out the strip of metal between the round diamonds and the channel set stones.
The customer asked that the outer bands should be more at the same level as the center section, so I welded the center section a bit lower. I am proud to say that all the modifications were done as welding, either with the torch or the laser. There is no solder used on this ring.
The ring turned out great. The before looked great too. But now she has the ring that she wanted and we got to do it for her. Took a little more work to get there, but it was worth it.
As I am forced to using the bench microscope more and more because of today’s jewelry that use micro pave’ diamonds. Yesterday I was setting up some new rings and replacing/repairing some micro bead set diamonds with 0.8mm diameter diamonds. To give prospective of how tiny these are, I took a picture of some on a dime. These are full cut diamonds with over 50 facets. Whereas a number of years ago, melee under 0.02ct were “single cut” stones with 27 facets.
One of my diamond sources is now cutting full cut 1/3 pointers. (0.003 carat)
Looks like I will need to keep my microscope nearby.
This is a remounting of the customer’s diamonds from an invisible set princess cut and baguette ring and two round brilliant cut diamond bands. (I do not have a before picture). Invisible set rings look cool but can not take much abuse or much wear and tare. She was constantly having loose stones. She lost stones enough times to finally redo the ring. We channel and prong set the diamonds for a more secure setting method.
Since there was just a big void where the belly of the stone used to be, I had to make a new bridge to accept the base of the peg head. I laser tacked the bridge in place and soldered it in with “hard” solder. Hard solder has a higher melting temperature then the “easy” solder which I was going to be using in the next soldering step. With small brushes, I polished the bridge. The prongs of her existing mounting were in great shape so I kept her stone in the crown and transferred it over the new ring. I knew I could solder the head in place with “easy” solder without fear of unsoldering the bridge from its place.